1/19/09
Today was a beautiful, sunny day, so this afternoon I decided to go to the park to read. When I arrived, the central square was already full of motion—women sitting on the benches chatting, teenagers playing soccer, and the gardener sweeping. No sooner had I sat down to read when a guy on a bicycle stopped in front of me and said, in barely inteligible English, “How are you?” I chatted with him for a few minutes—first a few broken phrases in English, after which he was grateful to switch to Spanish. He told me a bit about his experiences working in the U.S. after crossing the border “mojado”or “wet” --in other words, illegally.

All of a sudden I heard a band playing and people started flowing out of the church. Judging by the sad melody and slow, rhythmic motion of the people, I realized it was the funeral for the old woman who had died yesterday. I went to watch the procession pass, and decided to follow. Despite a few curious glances, and smiles and pointing from children, I don't think anyone minded. The procession and music reminded me a bit of the opening scene from The Godfather: Part II. For me, it was powerfully moving. After a few songs by the band, the crowd sung an a Capella chant or mourning, the casket visible over the heads of the mourners crowding the narrow streets. As we entered the gates of the cemetery several blocks later, I was struck by the brilliant image of the Guatemalan landscape which the graves overlook. The enormous Volcano (I still haven't learned it's name) towered clearly in the distance, and the sinking sun lit the afternoon sky orange and gave a transcendental aura to the entire scene. The crowd broke up briefly, as families went to greet their loved ones' graves. Everyone came together for more prayers and doleful chants, before proceeding to the gravesite, where the coffin was lowered into an above ground cement grave and covered on the spot with cement. I was reminded of my own grandmother's funeral only 9 months ago. Even though I had never met the woman, I was moved to tears by the scene, which was so sad and so beautiful all at once.

Death has been a recurring theme in my short time here in Guatemala. I have seen brief glimpses of the difficulties and suffering endured by people here; heard atrocious stories of the country's violent past as well as its violent present, bus crashes, natural disasters, exotic diseases and maladies, and other unsettling possibilities. At times I have wondered why I intentionally put myself in a place with higher risk. Experiences like today make me remember why I'm here. The intensity, the opportunity to see and do things I've never seen or done before, the beauty and suffering of every day life, it all makes me wake up every morning feeling so alive. I wouldn't have it any other way.

1/20/09

Inauguration day. We went to the Peace Corps training center in Santa Lucia Milpas Altas for our weekly day of group training. At 10:30, during a lively medical session about diarrhea with our Nurse Kathy, we stopped abruptly to turn on CNN for coverage of the inauguration. It was very exciting to be watching this historic event with my fellow volunteers. I was most proud when President Obama talked about America's commitment to assist the people of poor nations. As Peace Corps volunteers, we are not allowed to discuss our political beliefs. Nonetheless, we are all optimistic of the new direction our country has taken and proud to represent the American people in Guatemala as Peace Corps volunteers.

1/23/09

Today, after finishing our Spanish class we were informed that there was a protest about to start in front of the municipality building in the town center. Apparently there's a highway project that controversial because it passes through private land and was being protested. We wanted to go see what it was about but were told that it was too risky--I have to admit that it would be hard for the white people who are taller than any of the locals to blend in to the crowd. Apparently the riot police were called and they sometimes use tear gas. So, instead we spent a few hours at Sara's house playing with the kids.