I have neither the time, nor adjectives, to adequately describe my experiences along the Wild Coast of South Africa, so it will have to suffice to call it a paradise! I had a simply unforgettable time in Cintsa hanging out at Buccaneers backpackers, especially once the clouds disappeared and we got some nice weather. Every day they have a free activity complete with 10 liters of free wine which guarantees a great time no matter what-- I learned how to play cricket on the beach one day, and had a great game of volleyball (the Aussies beat us!) the following afternoon. I spent a day mountain biking, visited a lion park where we played with baby lion cubs and a young cheetah (who fortunately didn't bite TOO hard when he was playing), did some kayaking, and also hiked around quite a bit. I'll miss the beach, the bar, and all the great friends I made in Cintsa!

From Cintsa, I headed to a tiny beachfrong village called Bulangula, a completely unspoiled paradise where I got to learn about the native Xhosa culture. It's most unique aspect is possibly its language which is characterized by various "clicks" mixed in with its other sounds. The hostel I stayed at, while a bit chaotic, was unforgettable-- Westerners mix with locals, creating a very international environment-- my first night while eating my dinner, I was joined by some girls doing their math homework. After dinner I relaxed by the fire and watched shooting stars before heading to my tent (which, to my dismay, had been raided by a pesky dog--fortunately nothing was missing) My first day, after taking a shower in their paraffin "rocket" shower--which sounds just like a fighter jet taking off-- I hiked along the beach to a nearby waterfall, with some spectacular scenery, plants and animals including freshwater crabs and a rhinocerous beatle. In the afternoon I took a tour of the village, including visits to several local homes. The omnipresent circular mud huts are quite pretty, and different from any I've seen before.

Yesterday I made the 9 hour, 20+ mile hike from Bulangula to Coffee Bay with Nigel and Marjorie, a nice couple from England, as well as Simon, our local guide. In addition to being one of the most challenging day-hikes I've ever done (with lots of rolling hills up and down), it was also one of the most beautiful. On our way out in the morning, we say a pod of dolphins from the beach, and noticed several of them "surfing" towards shore on the enormous waves. After an hour, the trail cut inland, and we passed through untouched Xhosa villages for the next several hours. We crossed several small rivers, and alternated between grasslands and forrest terrain. After lunch we descended into a river valley, and the remaining few hours were spent back along the coast, with spectacular cliffs, rocky beaches, and exotic plantlife, all made even more dramatic by the fading colors of the late afternoon sun. Exhausted and dehydrated, we were quite relieved to finally arrive in Coffee Bay at 5 p.m., after 9 straight hours of difficult hiking. Our happiness was shortlived, however, when we discovered that our baggage, which we had arranged to be transported to Coffee Bay, had been left at a gas station halfway, so we were forced to go to bed in our sweaty, dirty clothes, without brushing our teeth (or taking my malaria medication :( A few beers and a local band helped ease the discomfort before passing out from exhaustion. Fortunately we caught an early shuttle out this morning, and were relieved to find our bags locked in the Shell station office, waiting for us safely.

I spent the day on the bus to Durban, and am looking forward to a 3 day Safari into Zululand beginning tomorrow. More details to come...